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Skeleton Corpse - Page 2

Instructions (continued)

20. Put on your latex gloves. Liquid latex can be very messy and tends to get everywhere. Make sure you're wearing clothes/shoes you don't mind getting ruined because they most likely will.
21. Also, it's best to do this outside if possible. But, if you've got to do it inside, be sure to put down tarps and make sure you've got plenty of ventilation.
22. There are lots of different types of latex you can use. I use mask latex. It's a bit more expensive, but it dries considerably faster and (I think) stands up to weather a little better. You can also use carpet latex. It's very inexpensive, but it takes a long time to dry.
23. Put a small amount (about a cup) of latex into a plastic cup or bowl.
24. STYLE CHOICE: You can use the latex as is and it'll dry an off-white color. This is perfectly fine. If, however, you'd like to add some color at this stage, you can add a small amount of latex or acrylic paint to change the color. This helps reduce some painting or staining later. Reds, yellows, oranges, greens, browns, and black all work well, but don't be afraid to experiment. And, since we'll be adding a few layers of latex "skin," you can change colors as you go.
25. EDITOR'S NOTE: Consistency vs. Inconsistency. Here's a simple rule I like to follow when creating my corpses. When applying the first layer of latex (and later when applying stains), be consistent. Apply a thin, even coat to everything and everywhere. If you can see it, paint it with latex. You want to make sure you get good coverage on that first layer. Later layers should be the opposite. Apply thicknesses and colors inconsistently. Different parts of the body decay at different rates depending on a lot of different factors and your corpse should reflect that.
26. Apply the liquid latex over the nylon skin of your corpse with a brush. Apply it as well to the exposed bones.
27. Once this layer of latex skin is tacky, experiment with stretching and pulling the pantyhose skin of your corpse. Remember, the thicker the layer of latex, the longer it'll take to dry.
28. Take your time stretching and pulling on areas to find the best balance between hanging strands of "flesh" and patches of skin.
  Stretch to create flesh on skeleton. Pull to create skin on skeleton. Use latex to create fleash and skin over skeleton.
29. When each latex skin layer is satisfactory, it's time to think about adding some visual and textural depth and character to your corpse.
30. Get some long strands of jute, burlap, or stretch spider webs, or whatever and begin rubbing them into the still wet skin of your corpse. Just about anything can be a candidate for becoming a strand or a bit.
31. The goal is to emulate muscle, tendons, ligaments, and other internal body parts.
32. Using a brush, paint the jute or other material into the skin with liquid latex.
33. Experiment with different shapes and patterns - loops, long strands, short strands, frayed edges, etc.
  Use layers of latex on skeleton. Form tendons and ligaments. Layer over corpse bodt parts.
34. Repeat steps 25 through 32 until you're satisfied with the look and feel of your new corpse. The goal is to have layer upon layer on the surface of your corpse.
35. Once your corpse is completely dry and you're satisfied with the basic look, it's time to start aging it.

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