Skeleton Foundry
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Bloody Skull Candle Lamp

Finished Bloody Skull Candle Lamp.

Instructions (continued):

19. While looking at the face of the skull, align the edge of a ruler with the middle of the skull, then using a marker mark the center line on the top of the skull. Then, do the same on the side of the skull. These two intersecting lines will give you the point where you need to drill through the top of the skull.
20. Top of skull.Remove the top of the skull and set it flat on your workbench or table. Using a power drill with a 1/4 inch drill bit, drill a hole through the top of the skull at the point where the two centering lines intersect.
21. Feed the candle electrical cord.Now, feed the electrical cord from the plastic candle through the hole. Center the plastic candle over the hole. Apply a small amount of hot glue to the plastic candle and skull. You want enough to hold the plastic candle securely in place during the remainder of the project, but not too much that it creates a problem for us later. (NOTE: If you plan to create a lamp and use a shade, you may want to find a better way of securing the plastic candle tube to the skull cap. Repeatedly removing and replacing the shade will cause a lot of stress on the joint between the tube and the skull cap and weaken the bond created by the hot glue alone.)
22. Connect electrical wires.Place the top of the skull into the base of the skull and connect the electrical wires from the plastic candle to the power cord. Then, secure them with wire caps and electrical tape.
23. Flip the top of the skull around and place it on top of the base.
24. Check Point — Check your connections!!! Replace the light bulb into the plastic candle and plug it into a wall outlet. Make sure that it's turned on. If it lights up, you're connections are good and you can proceed. If not, unplug the unit from the outlet and open the skull back up. Check to make all your wiring is secure and the bulb is set tightly. Then, check again.
25. Remove the top of the skull again. Working VERY quickly, run a thin line of hot glue around the top edge of the base of the skull, then replace the top of the skull and push down firmly. You want to make sure you get a good seal. If any gaps remain, fill them in with a thin line of hot glue. Give it a few seconds to cool down a bit, then smooth it out with your finger.
26. Overlap of top and bottom skull portions.When the two are together, you may notice a bit of overlap here and there between the top and bottom portions of the skull. This is normal. It comes with the territory of a 4th quality skull.
27. There is an easily remedy for this. Using your Dremel tool with medium grit sanding wheel, move slowly up and down — slowly removing bits of the protruding plastic. Do this wherever the two pieces don't quite match up. Once this is completed, take a piece of fine grit sand paper and smooth out the areas affected. It won't be perfect, but that's ok. Any blemishes created by the sanding process will be covered up later on.
28. use ht glue to fill in holes.Also, go around to the hardware holes and smooth out the hot glue used to fill them in.
29. Style Choice — You now have a choice to make with regards to the lower jaw. There are three options — no jaw, closed jaw, or open jaw. Jumping ahead a few steps I'm going to give you the opportunity to see what each of them look like.
No jaw. Jaw closed. Jaw opened.
30. If you chose no jaw, you can skip to the next step. Take the jaw bone and place the rear ball joints into the sockets located on the skull. They are just below where the cheek bone connects to the skull. Hot glue jaw.If you want a closed jaw, use a piece of packing tape to hold it closed while you apply hot glue to the ball joints. If you want an open jaw, prop something between the upper and lower jaw, then apply a piece of packing tape to hold it in place while you apply the hot glue. Use enough to hold it securely in place, but not too much that others can see it very easily.
31. Create a base for skull lamp.The next step is to create a base for the lamp to stand on. During the construction process, it became clear that the lamp would be very unbalanced without it. I purchased an unfinished 5x7x1/4 inch wooden plaque at Michael's craft store for $1. I found the center lengthwise, then drove a 3 inch nail through it 2.5 inches from the back.
32. Then, I painted it black. Once the paint was dry, I placed four small beads of hot glue on the bottom of the lamp and a fifth on the nail. Then, I very quickly inserted the nail into the lamp's power cord hole (making sure not to pierce the wire) and pressed the lamp firmly into place. (This would be another good point to make sure the lamp still works.)

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